Just got a longbow and need help

[Phillip]

I just got a longbow last night. I have a couple of questions:
1) When measuring the brace height on a longbow, I need to measure between the string and what? I have a couple of bow squares.
2) I need a quiver. The bowyer recommended a quiver attached to the bow. Any suggestions.
3) Isn't there a round button that attaches to the string that keeps the brush from pinching between the bow and the string?
4) Is the Bateman glove a decent glove?
I am open for suggestions on shooting as well. I am going to have to hook up with someone that can show me how to shoot this thing. I am having trouble hitting the 12 ring at 25 yards. In fact, about 1/2 the time I would be better off if the target was facing the other way.

[bowjunkie]

Way to go! Welcome to the Dark Side 8)

To measure brace height...measure from the deepest part of the grip to the string. You can contact the mfg for the preferred setting and tweak from there.

There are a myraid of quivers available. The slide on Selway is a good quiver for longbows.

I have a set of the Brush Buttons around somewhere yu can have if you want them. I did not like them on my recurve.

Earl Bateman makes great traditional products. I have two of his quivers and shot with his glove....now use a tab as I like the cleaner release I get.

As for accuracy....I would start shooting at no more then 10 yards to begin with. The move out in 5 yard increments from there. I would venture that over 90 percent of all traditional tackle kills are within 20 yards and probably over 50 percent within 15 yards. If you are having trouble on the 12 ring at 27 yards, thats a small prblem if you are in the 8 consistently at that distance :wink: Just figure it this way...if you shoot a 240 with any tackle at a 3-D shoot that is 30 dead animals :lol:

Another tip would be to only shoot a few arrows a day as opposed to many. Take time to make every arrow count when only shooting a few. Give each shot your total concentration and focus on a very small part of the target, get a good solid anchor and a smooth release. Brian Keeling and Kavin Vann told me this on more then one occassion and it works when done.

Congrats on your Longbow purchase and have FUN!

PS...what bow did you get and what are the specs?

[longbowsteve]

Congrats on the longbow!! Bowjunkie had some great tips! The round brush buttons are used mostly on recurve bows to keep twigs and such from being caught in the curves of the bow. Most longbows will catch on debris but it can easily be removed since it is not pinched between the limbs and the string. I personally do not like to attach a quiver to my longbows since it adds unwanted weight and to me throws the bow off center. Some shoot really well with the quivers on the bows and I guess it is a personal choice and you get used to the way the bow shoots with the quiver attached. I know if you have it on the bow, practice with it on and full of arrows. Bryan Keeling shoots his recurves with the quiver attached and always has it full of arrows just like it will be when he hunts (don't tell his I said so, but I consider him one of the most consistant shooter with his equipment). Like Bowjunkie said, shoot at a close range until you group and do a step back and shoot until you group. You have to let your hands and eyes get used to the arrows arch at different distances. If you start to spread the group, move back in. Hope some of this helps, it is what was taught to me by many and by reading on the shooting skills. Good luck and have fun with the stick...

[Phillip]

Thank your for the suggestions.
Bowjunkie the 12 ring that was a joke. My arrows have trouble distinguishing the head from the tail of a 3D target; and the bag from the fence boards of the spot target, and that is all at 10 yards.
If the brush buttons are not a necessity I would rather not use them. I would like to keep things on this bow as simple as possible.
The bow I got was a 60" Winterwind longbow. It was the bow I won at the banquet. Dale did a very nice job.

[Phillip]

How often should you break the bow down? Can I leave it strung for a while or should it be broke down each day?

[longbowsteve]

Phillip, I leave my stick bows strung up for several days when I put a new string on them to help speed up the stretch of them. It doesn't take but a few seconds to break down and string a stick bow so I take them down when I finish shooting for the day. Never know when it might get entirely too warm where they are stored. Some say you can leave the new composite sticks strung indefinitely, but why take a chance. This is just what I do...GOOD LUCK with the new bow

I hardly ever unstring my longbows if i am shooting them on a regular basis. I hang themm by the string on two pegs. I personally use a great northern strap-on bowquiver. You neede to tune it and practice with the quiver loaded minus one arrow that you're shooting.

[LostHawg]

Brush buttons are okay. I prefer to not use them though. I prefer my bow to be as naked as possible. :lol:
Bowjunkie's right about the brace height. Another thing about brace height though, is that as it reaches the best height, the hand shock will demenish. Your arrow will stabilize as well, providing your nock point is attached properly. It will reduce the chance of "porpoising". Usually brace height will be between 6 1/2" and 7 1/4". Depending on the bow.
Practice? 10 yards is good for beginning. I like to, as Bowjunkie pointed out, practice out to 20 yards. I would like to hit my spot 100% of the time, but I'll settle with the "10 ring" 80% of the time. Of course, of late, I've not been doing that. Lost out on a lot of practice while trying to relocate to a new town.
When practicing, you will be more consistant if you remember to release your arrow using the strength in your upper back. Once you've reached anchor, let the pulling of squeezing your shoulder blades together pull your fingers from the string. EASIER SAID THAN DONE. Hehehe. Don't bare down on your anchor. This will usually result in releasing with your strong arm as opposed to an equal release. Lots of words, sounds real technical, but, after a while you don't even realize you're doing it. With practice, you'll reach your anchor and instinctively the release will happen. Doesn't matter WHERE you anchor, as long as you do it EVERYTIME. Then - - Consistency will bring your accuracy to bare.
Don't practice with a coach. Practice with a friend that will laugh with and at you. In other words, don't practice with someone who'll analyze every shot for you. Practice with someone who you can relax and have fun with. When you start throwing too many technicallities into traditional archery, too many things can go wrong.

As for the brush buttons? I try to keep my limb tips out of the brush. When necessary, I pull the grass or other small objects loose. You would'nt shoot a firearm without making sure the barrel is clear first, right? Same - same. Just throw on some cat whiskers or fur silencers and go for it.

Dude, have fun and congratulations on a good bow. I think, not sure though, that Keith Bane, World Champion Longbow Archer, has sponsored and shot that model in the past. May still do it.

Enjoy and if I can help in any way, shoot me an email.

I've found that certain bow quivers will scar the bow. I use a hip quiver and can easily take it off while on stand.

My .25 on the issue. (Too much for .02)

[Phillip]

Thanks for the info.