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Old 03-08-2007, 11:41 PM   #16
Graybow
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This makes me want to build some new arrows! I like to play around with different color schemes. I hardly ever make the same pattern twice.
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Old 03-09-2007, 06:15 AM   #17
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Me too.
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:02 AM   #18
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Okay, back at it.

Sand paper

Use 220 grit or finer sand paper.

Dye


Here you see Fiebings leather dye. I also use Rit dye mixed with denatured alcohol, but not for this batch. The colors to be used are Russet, Black and Turquoise as stated before.

Thus, we enter the staining prep stage of arrow crafting:

Before staining I'll sand the shafts LIGHTLY with 220 grit or finer sand paper. This serves two purposes: smooths the shaft and helps locate splinters not previously found. You can use steel wool, but I prefer sand paper as it doesn't snag. Some splinters are workable.

Once you've made a couple passes with the sand paper over the shafts, wipe the shafts down with your shop rag or paper towel to remove dust/residue.

Now, if you choose to crown and/or cap, you will need to mark where you want the colors to change. I've got my measurements premarked on my arrow workstation so all I have to do is lay the shaft on the marks and with a No. 2 pencil (any pencil) I make a visible mark. The pencil mark will usually come off while your sanding with the steel wool; we'll get to that later.

Cap


Crown/Crest
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:22 AM   #19
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Make sure when storing your dye the bottles don't tip over. The caps don't seal too well.

Oh yeah, let me throw in another warning or two.

WARNING: Use adequate ventilation during the staining process.

WARNING: Use of a dust mask is highly recommended during any of the sanding stages.

WARNING: Wear gloves during the staining process to prevent skin contact with the leather dye.

Note: As with any chemical, be sure to READ ALL WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS posted on the label.

Note: You may choose to wear leather gloves during sanding to prevent getting any splinters.

"Fast Orange" works real well for cleaning your hands if you get any of the dye on you.
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:42 AM   #20
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Okay, I'm back to stain:

When I stain the shafts I use fiebings alcohol based leather dye or Rit Dye mixed with alcohol. I think I mentioned this above.

I use the daubers that come with the Fiebings (leather shops usually carry extras) to coat the shaft as needed with the leather dye. Alcohol based dyes work real well. They dry fast and can be worked in as little as an hour or two depending on the weather, temperature and perhaps the age of the wood (how cured is the wood?). I've found that with shafts with excess resin in them you'll tend to have "bald" spots after wooling. Personally, I think this adds character and don't mind it. I'm sure more educated folk will have something to add about this. I haven't noticed any compromise in shaft strength due to this, so I press with pride.

As stated above I'll mark where I want my cap and crown to begin. The crown mark will be center crest and will not have to be too uniform. I cap with a fade or bleed if you will, kinda a signature for my arrow work I suppose.

Applying Leather Dye Stain


Leather Dye with cap (many will paint over this as well to hide the change in color)


Center Crest


Center Crest to Nock
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Old 03-09-2007, 08:14 AM   #21
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DIPPING PREP

So, we've stained our shafts. Now its time to get them ready for sealing. Here you'll need some shop rags as well as your steel wool.

Check for straightness and straighten any bends at this time. It is more difficult to keep a shaft straight if you wait till after the sealing process.


I always have trouble explaining how this process works so bear with me. ops:

Sand the shaft using 0000 steel wool to remove any foriegn matter as well as dye residue. This is also another chance to catch any flaws in the shaft before sealing.

"Wooling"




If you choose to use multiple colors with different base tones it is best to wool the sections seperately. For instance, if you use blue and yellow, the blue will bleed into the yellow causing an off green tone.

Once you have the shaft "wooled" smooth you'll need to clean off the residue. I use the disposable blue shop rags (paper towels) from the Wal Mart automotive section. They're porous enough to capture the residue. This will prevent the dye residue from tainting your sealant if you use a dip tube as I do.

Cleaning residue


Continue to wipe the shaft till no residue shows on the rag.

I fold the rag down to hand size, fold one end around the shaft and wipe several times. I then unfold, move to the center of the rag and fold around the shaft again and wipe several times again. I continue wiping and folding till the rag comes away clean. In the photo you can see that my son, Justin, is on the second wiping as he's in the center of the rag. Depending on the number of colors used you can get a dozen shafts with as little as one rag. If you're using easily compromised colors, as with the steel wool, I recommend you use one rag per color.

Once you get the shaft wooled and cleaned you're now ready for your first dip in the sealant.
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Old 03-09-2007, 08:27 AM   #22
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DIPPING

As I said, I will be using Helmsman Spar Urethane for this batch. I've come to like the spar urethane over gasket lacquer (GL). It seems to hold up better to aggressive target practice than gasket lacquer. Just about any hardware store carries it unlike GL and costs significantly less.

When I decided to quit the GL, I opted to keep the dip tube and gasket system. After an hour of work I got the old GL out of my tube and reloaded it with the urethane.

Tube


Prior to dipping, you need to prime the gasket. This will enable you to achieve a uniform coating of urethane the length of the shaft. I use either an old "retired" arrow or a shaft that is not arrow quality to prime the gasket. You dip the primer shaft to pull the urethane up to the gasket. Once you start its recommended to dip all 12 shafts in one setting. If you can't do this you will need to clean the gasket after any significant interruptions.

Dipping



Dip the shafts and stow them in such a way as to allow the urethane to set evenly. I use a "clothes line"system:

Hanging




With GL you can go back to work on the shafts after only a few hours of "hang" time. GL sets faster than spar urethane. With spar urethane I'll usually wait at least 8 hours. Depending on the weather and temperature I may wait longer or less.

Okay, so they're hanging and the urethane is setting. We've got a big wait before we continue. What I do during this time is take another inventory to make sure I've got every thing for cresting. Paints, thinner, brushes, etc. I can also use this time to chop feathers if I choose, clean points, or go harrass the kids and such.

More later this evening. Gonna do some painting.
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:23 PM   #23
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Got a problem. My blue cresting paint is no good. Gotta get some good stuff before continuing. Should be back at it tomorrow evening.

Corrected the problem. (03/12/2007) Got the cresting done and the shafts dipped twice in the urethane to seal the crests. I'll go over this process tomorrow, 03/13.
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Old 03-13-2007, 07:39 AM   #24
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Here's the problem I had with the cresting: When I painted the blue on I was trying a new paint. I thought it was basically the same stuff as what I normally use, but found out I was wrong. As no one that I know of here in San Angelo, carries "Odds n Ends" anymore, I had to find a replacement. Testors. And it was easy to find. Got it at the "Hobby Lobby". Just simple "fast dry enamel".

WARNING: Observe warnings on label. Use adequate ventilation!!!
The good stuff

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Old 03-13-2007, 08:17 AM   #25
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Okay, now, after you've let your shafts hang and the urethane set you'll need to "clean" them up again.

As with the dye, take 0000 steel wool and buff/sand them smooth. Wipe off the residue and you're ready to start cresting.

You'll need your pencil again to mark the locations you've selected: Center crest and the crest's borders as well as any other lines you want to paint on. Mark it just so you can see your mark as it turns on the jig.

Ideal work environment:


Make sure your brushes are clean and the bristles are even. Remove any bristles that do not lay in uniformity. While painting, keep bristles saturated with paint. If you do mess up on the crest, you can remove the crest paint with mineral spirits. Clean the shaft completely with the spirits and a shop rag and start over.

Apply a base coat with flat white. More critical for painting broader areas.


After the base coat has time to set, apply first color. I start with the border lines and work my way to center:



In this case, I used flat white for a base, blue for borders and gloss white for the main crest. (Note to self: Learn what these things are called by the pros. ops: )

Once you finish one arrow hang it to allow the paint to set. Using the clothesline hanging system, I'll hang them in order so that when I complete number 12, I can go straight back to number 1 with the next color. One color at a time. Once number 12 is complete with the final color, I leave them all to hang over night, preferred, but have dipped in as little a 4 hours in the past. Just allow enough time for the paint to dry before dipping in the sealer.

If you're using gasket lacquer, its best to coat the crest with something like water based poly urethane. The acetone in the gasket lacquer will cause cresting paint to run even if its set properly. Even using water poly the GL can still cause the paint to run. As I said, I'm not a paint expert, I guess it reactivates the paint. Anyway, it'll really trash up a good cresting job and there goes an hour or two wasted.
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:28 AM   #26
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I usually will pull one shaft off the line at a time. As I change colors I will flip the shaft so the freshly painted shafts are discernable from the dried shafts


Another suggestion for hanging shafts to dry:

I had some extra shafts that needed worked, but only have my line set up for a dozen. Here I tied monofilament to clothes pins and hung them from coat hangers. Works pretty good, but you may want to shorten the leader. These are kinda long and the shafts swing more freely. Not necessarily a good thing. Anyway, thought I'd throw that in real quick.

Okay so we have the crests painted on and the shafts have hung long enough to allow the paint to dry. Now, you will be dipping again. Place the gasket back on your dip tube, prime and dip. Hang arrows to allow the sealant to dry. Sand with wool and clean off residue. Basically, every time you put a coat of sealant on, you'll hang, sand and clean. Right now, I've dipped 4 times per shaft. 3 to 4 more dips with sanding and I'll be ready for fletching. So I should be fletching on Thursday.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:39 PM   #27
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Well, now we're on the home stretch. One more dipping, hanging and wooling and we'll install nocks and feathers. I have church tomorrow evening, so fletching should begin Thursday, so I can ship this batch on Friday.

I did use photos from other batches for illustration purposes, hope y'all don't mind.

Drop me a PM or post here if you have any questions or suggestions.

Last edited by LostHawg; 02-16-2009 at 07:25 AM..
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:46 AM   #28
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Nocks

Now that I've got the shafts sealed the way I want them, its time to put nocks on.

Lay your shafts and nocks out

...with your glue at hand


Find the grain and allign horizontally:


Lay a bead of glue on the nock taper


Install nock and rotate for an even lay of glue and allign the nock so the grain will be at a 90 degree angle with the string when nocked. When the nock is fully seated, remove excess glue


Allow the glue time to set, as soon as 5 minutes with the Duco Cement


And you're ready for fletching.
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:05 AM   #29
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Good lookin shafts, Hawg. I've never got the hang of cresting yet. Need more practice. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:09 AM   #30
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The problem with posting pictures is the camera can see better than I can. 8)
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