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Old 03-15-2007, 10:49 PM   #31
LostHawg
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Gott'm fletched and will post the finale tomorrow (hopefully).
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:37 AM   #32
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Fletching

Feathers, glue, shafts and jigs



I numbered my clamps and stands so I can get a more uniform fletching job.

I opted for a natural barred cock feather. This will be the feather that helps to quickly allign the nock for notching the arrow to the string. Off white or pearl for the hen feathers. I'm using Duco Cement and as with the nocks, it takes only about 5 minutes to set hard enough to hold on its own.

Clamp your first feather and seat it on the shaft so the feather makes contact the full length of the feather. Allow the glue time to harden and remove clamp, install the next feather in the clamp, rotate the receiver of the fletching jig, glue and mate. Be mindful of the direction you rotate the receiver. When using 3 fletch, this is critical for feather placement. After the arrow is fletched set it aside and do another.


After I've completed installing feathers on the dozen I then will go along and place a bead of glue to the fronts and backs of all the feathers. This will help prevent the feather tip from raising and possibly imbedding in your hand upon release. If the set glue appears bubbled on the front and back of the feather, take a field point or screwdriver and roll it flat.

12 arrows, feathers and done.



Only thing left is installing points/broadheads. The recipient of these arrows elected to install the points himself, so they'll be going to Louisiana pointless.
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:38 AM   #33
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I can't believe all the issues I've had crafting these arrows. Love a challenge though.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:02 AM   #34
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Points

Clean your points using alcohol. Take care to remove all grease/oil residue from the inside of the point. This will weaken the integrity of the bond causing lost heads. I use a Q Tip. I dip one end of the Q Tip in alcohol and scrub the inside of the head. Then I'll take the dry end of the Q Tip and scrub it some more.


Next, take your glue stick, Feral-Tite recommended, and melt enough on one end to apply it to the point taper of the shaft. Then, using a pair of pliers (leatherman multi-tools work great) hold your point over the flame until it is hot enough to melt the glue.

Alcohol burner (propane torch will work)






Install the point rotating the shaft till it seats in the head. If your point's not hot enough it will not want to seat properly. Also, if its too hot it will burn the shaft.

I have a divit in the edge of my work bench (not my arrow work station) that I seat the tip of the point in. This allows me to apply pressure and better seat the head.

Once the head is properly seated I will use a spray bottle and spray a mist of water on the point to speed the cooling process. Any trapped air inside the point will cause it to pop off. Especially, it the glue isn't hot enough.

I will spin test the arrow to ensure the point is properly installed. There should be no wobble.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:14 AM   #35
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Next I'll usually go out and shoot the arrow to see how it flies. If all goes well, I've got more ammo.

All thanks to my big honkin mug of something to draink.



And that is how you turn a dowell into an arrow.
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:52 PM   #36
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Man that is cool
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:57 PM   #37
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LostHawg
I noticed that you used right wing feathers and I was wondering if you are right handed and whether you had to shoot them cock feather in to get good flight. I shoot right wing 'cause that is what my jig is from my compound days, and find that cock feather in is the only way I can shoot them without a lot of porpuss in flight.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:26 PM   #38
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That was real cool there Tracy, great job, must be really neet to build your own arrows and then take kill something with them. Bob
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:45 AM   #39
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Thanks Bob. It does bring a rush to see one lying on the ground telling you that your efforts paid off.

Chris, I've found no difference in the flight of my arrows due to the orientation of the fletching. I shoot cock feather out off the shelf.

I've found that porpoising is usually something to do with the nock. Whether the nock isn't properly installed or the nock point is too high or low, there's something affecting the proper horizontal allignment of the shaft when the string is released. So, its usually the nock. OR, you're pushing the nock with your index finger as you draw... Try shooting with a release aid sometime to see if you get the same results. (I have no idea if this works, I've just heard it suggested a few times)
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:08 AM   #40
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Question please,I am new to the Trad scene and happened on to your post here, I have a re-curve that I recently purchased ,45# @28" I shoot about 30/31",I am about to purchase a long bow of the same draw weight,can I shoot the same arrows with the curve as the L/B or do they need to be different lenght or weight, ? Also if you sell finished arrows I would be very interested in contacting you about some .
Thank you .
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Old 08-27-2008, 01:07 PM   #41
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David, I sent you a private message.

I'm thinking you should be able to use either 50 up to, but not more than, a 60 pound spined cedar arrow. Hope the PM helps.

www.3riversarchery.com has test kits.
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:49 AM   #42
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My latest arrow project. I've got 4 fletched with 2 orange and 1 barred orange so far. I like the way these have turned out. Wasn't too sure about doing the camo thing on the main shaft though. But, IMO, it worked.

I took the pic with my cell phone. I'll try to get some better shots with my digie cam when I'm done.

...maybe...
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:00 PM   #43
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Oh Great!!!! Now we will NEVER be able to find your arrows........

Those look good Tracy!!
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:38 PM   #44
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Thanks Danny.
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Last edited by LostHawg; 02-13-2009 at 12:11 PM..
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:59 AM   #45
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Not sure how I've over looked this thread until now. Lots and Lots of great information here!!!!! Thanks, you've given me some ideas on how to improve my arrow building projects.
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