Arrow build along using Port Orford Cedar
When crafting arrows its advisable to ensure you have all your supplies on hand prior to starting. Usually I do, sometimes I don't. Something as simple as not having a glue stick can hold you up, which is obvious.
Here is my list of items: Shafts - 1 doz POC 60/65# 11/32" dowells Nocks - 1 doz white 11/32" T nocks Fletching - 2 doz off white 5 1/2" shield cut turkey feathers, 1 doz natural barred Points - 1 doz 125 grain 11/32" fieldpoints Consumables: Duco Cement for fleching and nocks Feral-tite for points Denatured Alcohol for cleaning points and fuel for alcohol burner Spar Urethane for sealing shafts Fiebings alcohol based leather dye for staining shafts - Russet, Black, and Turquoise Modeling glue for cresting Q-Tips for cleaning points 0000 steel wool 220 grit sand paper Shop rags - the blue disposable work great Tools: Dip Tube for sealing Fletching jig(s) - JoJan mono-fletcher Cresting jig - Bohning Junior Crestor Nock/Point taper tool Hook - for straighting shafts Pliers - for holding HOT objects (points) Knife - who knows? you can always use a good knife Paint brushes - Camel and Sabil (use natural hair brushes for best results when cresting) Saw - I use a coping saw with a fine tooth crosscut blade Tape measure or suitable measuring standard Work bench (wife got mad when I got paint on her kitchen table) Hanging rack or line for drying shafts Lighter Will be back with a bunch of pictures and initiation of this project. ;) |
Exhibit A:
Arrow from a Dowell http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...icktoArrow.jpg WARNING: It is very important that arrows are of the proper spine strength for a given bow's draw weight. I installed this shelf/table a year or so ago to serve as an arrow workstation. On it I made a string jig, a standard for measuring shafts and mount holes for my fletching jigs. Works out great. |
I forgot the other IMPORTANT tool.
A big honkin mug of your favorite beverage to take a draink off'n from time to time. ;) |
Okay, here's the necessities:
Shafts http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ows/Shafts.jpg Paints and Paint sticks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...andBrushes.jpg Feathers and Nocks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rsandNocks.jpg Fieldpoints (soaking in rubbing alcohol to remove any oils/greases) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ningpoints.jpg |
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Alcohol burner, use DENATURED alcohol in the alcohol burner as it burns cleaner and hotter. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oholBurner.jpg Dyes and cleaning/thinning chems http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rows/Chems.jpg Dip Tube http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../BigDipper.jpg |
I still haven't seen a pic of the "big honkin draink!"
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Okay, a medium honkin draink. :lol: Incidentally, Shell Motor Oil company is in NO way affiliated with LostHawg Traditional Arrows Unc. (uncorporated?) :twisted:
Taper Tool for points and nocks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oolonshaft.jpg Nock/Fletch Cement and Glue stick for points http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...chingglues.jpg Steel wool and dip tube gasket http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0SteelWool.jpg I'll cover the rest as I go along. |
I usually start with the inspection and straightening. I check for things such as cross grain, splinters, knots, and other things that may compromise the quallity of the arrow.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...raightness.jpg You can do this either before or after you stain. It'll sometimes save some time, work maybe, if you inspect them before staining. I don't have a pic of that process just now, but above, I'm checking for straightness. I'll usually check for straightness as soon as I unbundle the dozen and again after I've stained the shafts. I then will check them periodically as I go along. Eventually, I'll have them all straight as an "arrow". :shock: |
Straightening before staining
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ftwithHook.jpg Straightening after staining http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Straighten.jpg Grip the shaft so the center of the bend is midway between your hand and your base support. Applying even pressure to the shaft with the hook slide the hook up and down the shaft opposing the bend. After a couple passes inspect for straightness again. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...raightness.jpg Repeat as needed. |
Determine which end is best suited for the nock taper. The point taper can wait till the last when you're ready to mount the point/head.
Taper the shaft to receive the nock, but do not install nock at this time. With Whiffen disposible taper tool http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...erpointend.jpg With "Best" taper tool with replacable blades http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oolonshaft.jpg Tapered shaft (I believe it is a 7 degree taper) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../NockTaper.jpg These particular shafts were pre-nock tapered. Demo pics are for illustration purposes only. |
You may recognize some of these pictures from a build along I did a couple years ago.
I've since cleaned up my garage, but alas, it wasn't meant to be. It's a mess again. :( :oops: |
good stuff thanks for sharing
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Good stuff Tracy. I have good luck with keeping the grain of the wood, where it is closest together, is on top and bottom. I put my knocks on at 90 degrees to that grain. It helps with getting the most spine out of the arrow. At least, it's helped me.
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A lot of times I'll find a slight bend in the very end of the shaft. Depending on the quality of that end, I will either use the opposite end for the nock (if its better), or I'll go ahead and cut to length and then us it for the nock. Usually, I don't have to cut to length prior to selecting the nock end.
Yes, the grain MUST be horizontal while nocked. Any compromise in the grain can result in injury if the grain fails. Having the grain horizontal will minimize this risk. ;) Tomorrow I'll go over staining, dipping prep and dipping. |
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