|
Arrow build along using Port Orford Cedar
When crafting arrows its advisable to ensure you have all your supplies on hand prior to starting. Usually I do, sometimes I don't. Something as simple as not having a glue stick can hold you up, which is obvious.
Here is my list of items: Shafts - 1 doz POC 60/65# 11/32" dowells Nocks - 1 doz white 11/32" T nocks Fletching - 2 doz off white 5 1/2" shield cut turkey feathers, 1 doz natural barred Points - 1 doz 125 grain 11/32" fieldpoints Consumables: Duco Cement for fleching and nocks Feral-tite for points Denatured Alcohol for cleaning points and fuel for alcohol burner Spar Urethane for sealing shafts Fiebings alcohol based leather dye for staining shafts - Russet, Black, and Turquoise Modeling glue for cresting Q-Tips for cleaning points 0000 steel wool 220 grit sand paper Shop rags - the blue disposable work great Tools: Dip Tube for sealing Fletching jig(s) - JoJan mono-fletcher Cresting jig - Bohning Junior Crestor Nock/Point taper tool Hook - for straighting shafts Pliers - for holding HOT objects (points) Knife - who knows? you can always use a good knife Paint brushes - Camel and Sabil (use natural hair brushes for best results when cresting) Saw - I use a coping saw with a fine tooth crosscut blade Tape measure or suitable measuring standard Work bench (wife got mad when I got paint on her kitchen table) Hanging rack or line for drying shafts Lighter Will be back with a bunch of pictures and initiation of this project. ;) |
Exhibit A:
Arrow from a Dowell http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...icktoArrow.jpg WARNING: It is very important that arrows are of the proper spine strength for a given bow's draw weight. I installed this shelf/table a year or so ago to serve as an arrow workstation. On it I made a string jig, a standard for measuring shafts and mount holes for my fletching jigs. Works out great. |
I forgot the other IMPORTANT tool.
A big honkin mug of your favorite beverage to take a draink off'n from time to time. ;) |
Okay, here's the necessities:
Shafts http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ows/Shafts.jpg Paints and Paint sticks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...andBrushes.jpg Feathers and Nocks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rsandNocks.jpg Fieldpoints (soaking in rubbing alcohol to remove any oils/greases) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ningpoints.jpg |
|
Alcohol burner, use DENATURED alcohol in the alcohol burner as it burns cleaner and hotter. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oholBurner.jpg Dyes and cleaning/thinning chems http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rows/Chems.jpg Dip Tube http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../BigDipper.jpg |
I still haven't seen a pic of the "big honkin draink!"
|
Okay, a medium honkin draink. :lol: Incidentally, Shell Motor Oil company is in NO way affiliated with LostHawg Traditional Arrows Unc. (uncorporated?) :twisted:
Taper Tool for points and nocks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oolonshaft.jpg Nock/Fletch Cement and Glue stick for points http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...chingglues.jpg Steel wool and dip tube gasket http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0SteelWool.jpg I'll cover the rest as I go along. |
I usually start with the inspection and straightening. I check for things such as cross grain, splinters, knots, and other things that may compromise the quallity of the arrow.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...raightness.jpg You can do this either before or after you stain. It'll sometimes save some time, work maybe, if you inspect them before staining. I don't have a pic of that process just now, but above, I'm checking for straightness. I'll usually check for straightness as soon as I unbundle the dozen and again after I've stained the shafts. I then will check them periodically as I go along. Eventually, I'll have them all straight as an "arrow". :shock: |
Straightening before staining
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ftwithHook.jpg Straightening after staining http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Straighten.jpg Grip the shaft so the center of the bend is midway between your hand and your base support. Applying even pressure to the shaft with the hook slide the hook up and down the shaft opposing the bend. After a couple passes inspect for straightness again. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...raightness.jpg Repeat as needed. |
Determine which end is best suited for the nock taper. The point taper can wait till the last when you're ready to mount the point/head.
Taper the shaft to receive the nock, but do not install nock at this time. With Whiffen disposible taper tool http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...erpointend.jpg With "Best" taper tool with replacable blades http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oolonshaft.jpg Tapered shaft (I believe it is a 7 degree taper) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../NockTaper.jpg These particular shafts were pre-nock tapered. Demo pics are for illustration purposes only. |
You may recognize some of these pictures from a build along I did a couple years ago.
I've since cleaned up my garage, but alas, it wasn't meant to be. It's a mess again. :( :oops: |
good stuff thanks for sharing
|
Good stuff Tracy. I have good luck with keeping the grain of the wood, where it is closest together, is on top and bottom. I put my knocks on at 90 degrees to that grain. It helps with getting the most spine out of the arrow. At least, it's helped me.
|
A lot of times I'll find a slight bend in the very end of the shaft. Depending on the quality of that end, I will either use the opposite end for the nock (if its better), or I'll go ahead and cut to length and then us it for the nock. Usually, I don't have to cut to length prior to selecting the nock end.
Yes, the grain MUST be horizontal while nocked. Any compromise in the grain can result in injury if the grain fails. Having the grain horizontal will minimize this risk. ;) Tomorrow I'll go over staining, dipping prep and dipping. |
This makes me want to build some new arrows! I like to play around with different color schemes. I hardly ever make the same pattern twice.
|
Me too. ;)
|
Okay, back at it.
Sand paper http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../Sandpaper.jpg Use 220 grit or finer sand paper. Dye http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rows/Chems.jpg Here you see Fiebings leather dye. I also use Rit dye mixed with denatured alcohol, but not for this batch. The colors to be used are Russet, Black and Turquoise as stated before. Thus, we enter the staining prep stage of arrow crafting: Before staining I'll sand the shafts LIGHTLY with 220 grit or finer sand paper. This serves two purposes: smooths the shaft and helps locate splinters not previously found. You can use steel wool, but I prefer sand paper as it doesn't snag. Some splinters are workable. Once you've made a couple passes with the sand paper over the shafts, wipe the shafts down with your shop rag or paper towel to remove dust/residue. Now, if you choose to crown and/or cap, you will need to mark where you want the colors to change. I've got my measurements premarked on my arrow workstation so all I have to do is lay the shaft on the marks and with a No. 2 pencil (any pencil) I make a visible mark. The pencil mark will usually come off while your sanding with the steel wool; we'll get to that later. ;) Cap http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...cilMarkCap.jpg Crown/Crest http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...lMarkCrown.jpg |
Make sure when storing your dye the bottles don't tip over. The caps don't seal too well.
Oh yeah, let me throw in another warning or two. WARNING: Use adequate ventilation during the staining process. WARNING: Use of a dust mask is highly recommended during any of the sanding stages. WARNING: Wear gloves during the staining process to prevent skin contact with the leather dye. Note: As with any chemical, be sure to READ ALL WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS posted on the label. ;) Note: You may choose to wear leather gloves during sanding to prevent getting any splinters. "Fast Orange" works real well for cleaning your hands if you get any of the dye on you. |
Okay, I'm back to stain:
When I stain the shafts I use fiebings alcohol based leather dye or Rit Dye mixed with alcohol. I think I mentioned this above. I use the daubers that come with the Fiebings (leather shops usually carry extras) to coat the shaft as needed with the leather dye. Alcohol based dyes work real well. They dry fast and can be worked in as little as an hour or two depending on the weather, temperature and perhaps the age of the wood (how cured is the wood?). I've found that with shafts with excess resin in them you'll tend to have "bald" spots after wooling. Personally, I think this adds character and don't mind it. I'm sure more educated folk will have something to add about this. I haven't noticed any compromise in shaft strength due to this, so I press with pride. ;) As stated above I'll mark where I want my cap and crown to begin. The crown mark will be center crest and will not have to be too uniform. I cap with a fade or bleed if you will, kinda a signature for my arrow work I suppose. Applying Leather Dye Stain http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ainwithDye.jpg Leather Dye with cap (many will paint over this as well to hide the change in color) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...eTurquoise.jpg Center Crest http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...CrestStain.jpg Center Crest to Nock http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...estStain-1.jpg |
DIPPING PREP
So, we've stained our shafts. Now its time to get them ready for sealing. Here you'll need some shop rags as well as your steel wool. Check for straightness and straighten any bends at this time. It is more difficult to keep a shaft straight if you wait till after the sealing process. ;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...raightness.jpg I always have trouble explaining how this process works so bear with me. :oops: Sand the shaft using 0000 steel wool to remove any foriegn matter as well as dye residue. This is also another chance to catch any flaws in the shaft before sealing. "Wooling" http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ws/Sanding.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ws/Wooling.jpg If you choose to use multiple colors with different base tones it is best to wool the sections seperately. For instance, if you use blue and yellow, the blue will bleed into the yellow causing an off green tone. Once you have the shaft "wooled" smooth you'll need to clean off the residue. I use the disposable blue shop rags (paper towels) from the Wal Mart automotive section. They're porous enough to capture the residue. This will prevent the dye residue from tainting your sealant if you use a dip tube as I do. Cleaning residue http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ws/Wiping1.jpg Continue to wipe the shaft till no residue shows on the rag. I fold the rag down to hand size, fold one end around the shaft and wipe several times. I then unfold, move to the center of the rag and fold around the shaft again and wipe several times again. I continue wiping and folding till the rag comes away clean. In the photo you can see that my son, Justin, is on the second wiping as he's in the center of the rag. Depending on the number of colors used you can get a dozen shafts with as little as one rag. If you're using easily compromised colors, as with the steel wool, I recommend you use one rag per color. Once you get the shaft wooled and cleaned you're now ready for your first dip in the sealant. |
DIPPING
As I said, I will be using Helmsman Spar Urethane for this batch. I've come to like the spar urethane over gasket lacquer (GL). It seems to hold up better to aggressive target practice than gasket lacquer. Just about any hardware store carries it unlike GL and costs significantly less. When I decided to quit the GL, I opted to keep the dip tube and gasket system. After an hour of work I got the old GL out of my tube and reloaded it with the urethane. Tube http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../BigDipper.jpg Prior to dipping, you need to prime the gasket. This will enable you to achieve a uniform coating of urethane the length of the shaft. I use either an old "retired" arrow or a shaft that is not arrow quality to prime the gasket. You dip the primer shaft to pull the urethane up to the gasket. Once you start its recommended to dip all 12 shafts in one setting. If you can't do this you will need to clean the gasket after any significant interruptions. Dipping http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/Dipping2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/Dipping1.jpg Dip the shafts and stow them in such a way as to allow the urethane to set evenly. I use a "clothes line"system: Hanging http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/Hanging1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...danddrying.jpg With GL you can go back to work on the shafts after only a few hours of "hang" time. GL sets faster than spar urethane. With spar urethane I'll usually wait at least 8 hours. Depending on the weather and temperature I may wait longer or less. Okay, so they're hanging and the urethane is setting. We've got a big wait before we continue. What I do during this time is take another inventory to make sure I've got every thing for cresting. Paints, thinner, brushes, etc. I can also use this time to chop feathers if I choose, clean points, or go harrass the kids and such. ;) More later this evening. Gonna do some painting. |
Got a problem. My blue cresting paint is no good. Gotta get some good stuff before continuing. Should be back at it tomorrow evening. ;)
Corrected the problem. (03/12/2007) Got the cresting done and the shafts dipped twice in the urethane to seal the crests. I'll go over this process tomorrow, 03/13. |
Here's the problem I had with the cresting: When I painted the blue on I was trying a new paint. I thought it was basically the same stuff as what I normally use, but found out I was wrong. As no one that I know of here in San Angelo, carries "Odds n Ends" anymore, I had to find a replacement. Testors. And it was easy to find. Got it at the "Hobby Lobby". Just simple "fast dry enamel".
WARNING: Observe warnings on label. Use adequate ventilation!!! The good stuff http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ddsandEnds.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../Testors-1.jpg |
Okay, now, after you've let your shafts hang and the urethane set you'll need to "clean" them up again.
As with the dye, take 0000 steel wool and buff/sand them smooth. Wipe off the residue and you're ready to start cresting. You'll need your pencil again to mark the locations you've selected: Center crest and the crest's borders as well as any other lines you want to paint on. Mark it just so you can see your mark as it turns on the jig. Ideal work environment: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...restingJig.jpg Make sure your brushes are clean and the bristles are even. Remove any bristles that do not lay in uniformity. While painting, keep bristles saturated with paint. If you do mess up on the crest, you can remove the crest paint with mineral spirits. Clean the shaft completely with the spirits and a shop rag and start over. Apply a base coat with flat white. More critical for painting broader areas. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ralSpirits.jpg After the base coat has time to set, apply first color. I start with the border lines and work my way to center: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../CrestingB.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../CrestingA.jpg In this case, I used flat white for a base, blue for borders and gloss white for the main crest. (Note to self: Learn what these things are called by the pros. :oops: ) Once you finish one arrow hang it to allow the paint to set. Using the clothesline hanging system, I'll hang them in order so that when I complete number 12, I can go straight back to number 1 with the next color. One color at a time. Once number 12 is complete with the final color, I leave them all to hang over night, preferred, but have dipped in as little a 4 hours in the past. Just allow enough time for the paint to dry before dipping in the sealer. If you're using gasket lacquer, its best to coat the crest with something like water based poly urethane. The acetone in the gasket lacquer will cause cresting paint to run even if its set properly. Even using water poly the GL can still cause the paint to run. As I said, I'm not a paint expert, I guess it reactivates the paint. Anyway, it'll really trash up a good cresting job and there goes an hour or two wasted. ;) |
I usually will pull one shaft off the line at a time. As I change colors I will flip the shaft so the freshly painted shafts are discernable from the dried shafts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...CrestHang2.jpg Another suggestion for hanging shafts to dry: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...MonoHanger.jpg I had some extra shafts that needed worked, but only have my line set up for a dozen. Here I tied monofilament to clothes pins and hung them from coat hangers. Works pretty good, but you may want to shorten the leader. These are kinda long and the shafts swing more freely. Not necessarily a good thing. Anyway, thought I'd throw that in real quick. Okay so we have the crests painted on and the shafts have hung long enough to allow the paint to dry. Now, you will be dipping again. Place the gasket back on your dip tube, prime and dip. Hang arrows to allow the sealant to dry. Sand with wool and clean off residue. Basically, every time you put a coat of sealant on, you'll hang, sand and clean. Right now, I've dipped 4 times per shaft. 3 to 4 more dips with sanding and I'll be ready for fletching. So I should be fletching on Thursday. |
Well, now we're on the home stretch. One more dipping, hanging and wooling and we'll install nocks and feathers. I have church tomorrow evening, so fletching should begin Thursday, so I can ship this batch on Friday.
I did use photos from other batches for illustration purposes, hope y'all don't mind. ;) Drop me a PM or post here if you have any questions or suggestions. |
Nocks
Now that I've got the shafts sealed the way I want them, its time to put nocks on. Lay your shafts and nocks out http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...eady4Nocks.jpg ...with your glue at hand http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Duco4Nocks.jpg Find the grain and allign horizontally: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ontalGrain.jpg Lay a bead of glue on the nock taper http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../4GlueBead.jpg Install nock and rotate for an even lay of glue and allign the nock so the grain will be at a 90 degree angle with the string when nocked. When the nock is fully seated, remove excess glue http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...eOffExcess.jpg Allow the glue time to set, as soon as 5 minutes with the Duco Cement http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...y4Feathers.jpg And you're ready for fletching. ;) |
Good lookin shafts, Hawg. I've never got the hang of cresting yet. Need more practice. Thanks for sharing.
|
The problem with posting pictures is the camera can see better than I can. 8)
|
Gott'm fletched and will post the finale tomorrow (hopefully).
|
Fletching
Feathers, glue, shafts and jigs http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ueFeathers.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rows/Jigs1.jpg I numbered my clamps and stands so I can get a more uniform fletching job. I opted for a natural barred cock feather. This will be the feather that helps to quickly allign the nock for notching the arrow to the string. Off white or pearl for the hen feathers. I'm using Duco Cement and as with the nocks, it takes only about 5 minutes to set hard enough to hold on its own. Clamp your first feather and seat it on the shaft so the feather makes contact the full length of the feather. Allow the glue time to harden and remove clamp, install the next feather in the clamp, rotate the receiver of the fletching jig, glue and mate. Be mindful of the direction you rotate the receiver. When using 3 fletch, this is critical for feather placement. After the arrow is fletched set it aside and do another. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...thersonJig.jpg After I've completed installing feathers on the dozen I then will go along and place a bead of glue to the fronts and backs of all the feathers. This will help prevent the feather tip from raising and possibly imbedding in your hand upon release. If the set glue appears bubbled on the front and back of the feather, take a field point or screwdriver and roll it flat. 12 arrows, feathers and done. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../DozenDone.jpg Only thing left is installing points/broadheads. The recipient of these arrows elected to install the points himself, so they'll be going to Louisiana pointless. |
I can't believe all the issues I've had crafting these arrows. Love a challenge though. ;)
|
Points
Clean your points using alcohol. Take care to remove all grease/oil residue from the inside of the point. This will weaken the integrity of the bond causing lost heads. I use a Q Tip. I dip one end of the Q Tip in alcohol and scrub the inside of the head. Then I'll take the dry end of the Q Tip and scrub it some more. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ningpoints.jpg Next, take your glue stick, Feral-Tite recommended, and melt enough on one end to apply it to the point taper of the shaft. Then, using a pair of pliers (leatherman multi-tools work great) hold your point over the flame until it is hot enough to melt the glue. Alcohol burner (propane torch will work) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/redflame.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../feraltite.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...yferaltite.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...leatherman.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../heatpoint.jpg Install the point rotating the shaft till it seats in the head. If your point's not hot enough it will not want to seat properly. Also, if its too hot it will burn the shaft. I have a divit in the edge of my work bench (not my arrow work station) that I seat the tip of the point in. This allows me to apply pressure and better seat the head. Once the head is properly seated I will use a spray bottle and spray a mist of water on the point to speed the cooling process. Any trapped air inside the point will cause it to pop off. Especially, it the glue isn't hot enough. I will spin test the arrow to ensure the point is properly installed. There should be no wobble. |
Next I'll usually go out and shoot the arrow to see how it flies. If all goes well, I've got more ammo. ;)
All thanks to my big honkin mug of something to draink. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...icktoArrow.jpg And that is how you turn a dowell into an arrow. |
Man that is cool
|
LostHawg
I noticed that you used right wing feathers and I was wondering if you are right handed and whether you had to shoot them cock feather in to get good flight. I shoot right wing 'cause that is what my jig is from my compound days, and find that cock feather in is the only way I can shoot them without a lot of porpuss in flight. |
That was real cool there Tracy, great job, must be really neet to build your own arrows and then take kill something with them. Bob
|
Thanks Bob. It does bring a rush to see one lying on the ground telling you that your efforts paid off.
Chris, I've found no difference in the flight of my arrows due to the orientation of the fletching. I shoot cock feather out off the shelf. I've found that porpoising is usually something to do with the nock. Whether the nock isn't properly installed or the nock point is too high or low, there's something affecting the proper horizontal allignment of the shaft when the string is released. So, its usually the nock. OR, you're pushing the nock with your index finger as you draw... Try shooting with a release aid sometime to see if you get the same results. (I have no idea if this works, I've just heard it suggested a few times) |
Question please,I am new to the Trad scene and happened on to your post here, I have a re-curve that I recently purchased ,45# @28" I shoot about 30/31",I am about to purchase a long bow of the same draw weight,can I shoot the same arrows with the curve as the L/B or do they need to be different lenght or weight, ? Also if you sell finished arrows I would be very interested in contacting you about some .
Thank you . David |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:43 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
2017 Lone Star Bowhunters Association