Needing info/advice on trad bows

rtread · 01-20-2010, 08:26 PM

I'm thinking about getting into trad shooting. At this point all I have ever shot are compounds....an "entry level" PSE Bruin which I promptly upgraded to a Mathews Switchback. I want to shop for a traditional bow.....probably at Archery Country in Austin or Nocked & Loaded in Lampasas, maybe Cabela's.

I don't know at this point whether I want a recurve or longbow. (I want a bow I can practice with until I feel comfortable hunting with....mainly from a tree blind with limited draw space and from a ground blind with plenty of draw space., mule deer from 10 to 30 yds.) I don't know the brands....good, better, best....etc. I've looked at Cabela's prices, mainly Fred Bear, Martin and PSE.

I know there are accomplished trad shooters on here....give me some ideas on what I need to consider. I'd rather not get an "entry level" bow to start with and promptly upgrade to a better hunting bow....as I did with compounds. I'd rather just dive right in to the bow I intend to hunt with.

All help appreciated!

Chunky · 01-20-2010, 09:11 PM

I normally tell people when they ask to get an entry level bow at low weight (still good to hunt with) and learn form. They upgrade to something heavier that they like.

Since you said that you don't want to go that route, I will give you some different advice. We have lots of excellent bowyers right here in Texas and they all make good bows. It really comes down to personal pref and what feels the best to you.

You could go to one of the big shoots and ask guys to try there bows, and shoot the bows from the vendors. Even if you pick say Bob Lee or Bob Sarrells, who I own both and are excellent bows, they have different models, grips, and woods to choose from.

A couple of quick points, trad bows hold there value much better than compounds. If you buy a nice used bow, you can recover most, if not all of your money when you upgrade.

The one thing to watch out for...for most shooters switching...is they get to heavy a trad bow and then can not get consistent and give up. Do not over bow youself. I was shooting an 80 lb compound, and I started with a 50 lb trad bow. It is much better to shoot a lighter bow and hit exactly where you want, that shoot a heavy fast bow that misses or worse makes a bad hit.

Good luck. I have about 20 bows, if you want to come shoot sometime.

bountyhunter · 01-20-2010, 09:23 PM

Ray,

If you don't want to sink a lot of money into a bow to start with but want a good bow to see if you like shooting traditional let me recommend checking out the Samick bows. I picked up one of their Sage model takedowns for a backup bow, and I was very impressed. It was the recurve I was shooting on the hunt we were own. There are better bows out there for sure, but these are really good bows for not a lot of money. They make both recurves and longbows and are really worth a look. Here is where I got mine http://www.traditionalarcheryusa.com/

You also want to get a good set of carbon arrows to start out with that have feather fletching. Cedar and other wood shaft arrows are more traditional, but you have to learn to straighten them. That is something you don't want to have to deal with when starting out. The get you a good backstop and start shooting. Shoot a lot and you will start to get the hang of it. It really does require a lot more practice than compounds do so be ready to shoot at least 3 or 4 times a week. Don't over do it when you first start as muscles will get sore. Only shoot 12 to 15 arrows the first couple of weeks then move up to more. Once you get stronger, you can shoot just as many as you would in a normal practice session with a compound.

I know there is more and I'm sure there will be more folks with more advice. Give me a shout if you have any questions.

Derek

BOBSTER · 01-21-2010, 07:21 AM

rtread, what both Chunky and Bountyhunter said. If you are ready to jump right into a great bow, Bob Lee has some closeout prices before the first of the year. I have not looked lately at his website. I own a Bob Lee and love it. It shoots smooth. Although I never shot a Bob Sarrels, his bows are really nice to. If you are not in a rush, both bowyers have been at our LSBA Banquet in the past and have a good selection of their bows to choose from. I might be jumping the gun on this years banquet, both hope to see both of them their again. Bob

rtread · 01-21-2010, 08:20 AM

Thanks all for some great advice! I'm beginning to think I might be better off going for an "entry level" bow first then going from there. I just remember my experience with compounds....when I decided to upgrade I wished I had gone with the Mathews to begin with. I have no reason to be in a hurry but I tend to get a little antsy once I get the fever....which I seem to be getting. Once I saw Derek's wooden arrows down at Elm Creek the fire got rekindled.....

bountyhunter · 01-21-2010, 09:04 AM

Ray,

There might also be some more helpful information down in the "Sticks and Strings" board http://www.lonestarbowhunter.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7 Thats were us Traditional guys and gals hangout.......

rtread · 01-21-2010, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bountyhunter

Ray,

There might also be some more helpful information down in the "Sticks and Strings" board http://www.lonestarbowhunter.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7 Thats were us Traditional guys and gals hangout.......

Ooops! Looks like I should have posted this down there. Maybe the mods can move it. Thanks for the good input!
I checked out the Bob Lee website.....beautiful work! I'm going to bookmark it and possibly pursue one on down the road. For now, I just ordered the Samick Sage that Derek recommended....as a get-my-feet-wet bow then maybe upgrade to a high-ender. I've been recuperating from rotator cuff surgery and I think (hope) I'm ready for a lot of practice.
Thanks for your input!!

Chunky · 01-21-2010, 10:27 AM

I just picked up another bow this weekend...Nothing fancy, an old hoyt recurve...low 40's. I gave 80 bucks for it. I also have an old bear out there with no string. It is also 40 somthing pounds and I think I gave 100 for it.

The point being, you can pick up a starter bow like this, and then sell it when you decide which bow and weight you really want.

I would even loan you one, if we could figure out how to get it two you.

bountyhunter · 01-21-2010, 05:39 PM

Dang Mark sounds like you are almost ready to open your own archery shop......

My sweet wife would kill me if I had that mean bows, well maybe now that I have her shooting she might ease up a little. Heck she already has two of her own.

Tomme · 01-21-2010, 07:23 PM

Chunky how light is too light? I am not overly blessed with upper body strength (unlike you and Buff). I have a Palmer at 45# and a Bob Lee at 50, but since I only shoot 54# with my Matthews would I be better off hunting with my Thompson Brothers 36# bow which I can pull and hold easier?

Chunky · 01-21-2010, 08:50 PM

Tomme,

I think a 36# bow with sharp 2 blade heads would be fine on deer and pigs that are not too big. I would probably give pigs over 200 a pass, and besides big ol boars are not good to eat anyway. Keep your arrows at a decent weight and shots close and you will be fine.

MJ

biggen · 01-22-2010, 08:08 AM

Mark do you have as many bows as Buff yet? I just picked up a Massey Longhorn Longbow and I am flirtin with the dark side again!!

bountyhunter · 01-22-2010, 09:01 AM

Speaking of new bows, I'm saving for a Warlock Recurve. I'm might not hunt or shoot it much but it is just a really kewl looking bow.

BOBSTER · 01-22-2010, 04:38 PM

That is a very different bow, looks pretty neet. Bob

Chunky · 01-22-2010, 10:23 PM

I have way more bows that my friend Buff. He only has Widows. I have bows from a dozen different bowyers. Of course, you could add the cost of 4 or 5 of mine to get to one Widow...so he may have more invested.